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First stop; Ullapool. Visits to the bookshop and usual giftshops. Massive queue at the Lochbroom petrol station, so with 290-odd miles still in the tank, we decided to pass it by and fill up the next day at Gairloch on the way to Applecross (part of day 11).

Leaving Ullapool, we stopped at the Eas Leacach waterfall

before cruising on to the Braemore viewpoint for lunch.

Four or five police cars flew past, which was a little worrying.

We carried on. Further up the road we hit a road block; looked like an incident with a vehicle in the ditch. Road closed to Mellon Udrigle! So this meant a long detour via Kinlochewe and Gairloch!

That’s what should have happened. Instead, had to divert to a 93miles trip.

Finally, we rolled into Mellon Udrigle campsite a little later than planned.

A basic site (no showers or toilets; does have water and chemical toilet disposal), but is really chilled out.

Simple agenda today. Drive a mere 12 miles to Stac Pollaidh and climb. Tick.

A massive Slow worm was spotted next to the path. About foot long, 1/2 diameter.

Spot the van!

West summit seen in background. We did the East summit because we’re sensible…

Just before leaving the path at the end we spotted this critter: A Golden-bloomed Grey Longhorn Beetle.

Today was a relatively short drive to the next campsite which will be our base for two nights, yet was quite tiring as we included a decent walk to visit the Bone Caves. First though, was a walk along the path to Suilven. Weather was way better than expected (it rained nearly all night) with lots of sun and good views of a moody Suilven.

After deciding to not climb the mountain (yeah, right. As if…look at it!) we continued to Ardvreck Castle and tried to take pictures without a load of tourists in the way.

Done beating tourists, we rolled on to the Bone Caves. Lovely walk up the valley, climbing to reach the caves. Holes in rocks, what can I say, but great views. The route down had a Precipice! moment as it was quite exposed.

A coffee was needed after the 3.3 mile walk and then back on the road to Althandhu and the Port à Bhaig campsite.

What a campsite! Probably one of the best so far and certainly having the best views.

Tea at the Am Fuaran bar/restaurant and that’s another day done

Wow. Halfway point already. Where does the time go?! Problem is, the days are blending into a continuum!

Soon after leaving our roadside pitch, the Kylesku bridge was upon us. Very impressive for a modern concrete and steel construction.

On from Kylesku was the turning for the Mad Wee Road. Definitely mad – single track, up and down and quite steep in places. For miles.

Stopped up in Drumbeg for a micro rest

Clashnessie beach and falls was next. Falls were quite impressive even though water levels are still low.

Didn’t take a picture of the beach, but did of an old telephone box

Further down the Mad road, we diverted to Stoer Lighthouse. Fantastic views all round.

Returning to the ‘main’ road, we stopped further along at Strone view point. From here, there were cracking views of Suilven.

Finally, we rolled into Achmelvich and the Shore campsite.

From the beach (at the end of the campsite we walked to Hermits Castle). Deceptively small.

There’s even a hermit living inside…

…and there it is…

Shore campsite handily has an on-site chip shop. Bonus!

A delayed post for Friday 15th due to not having any signal at our rest up on the side of the A894.

After leaving Borgie Glen, we headed south-west for Scourie. First stop was through Tongue where there was a decent view of Castle Varrich.

Ard Neckie lime kilns was next up. Didn’t go down to them, but stopped at the top to admire the curve leading to them

Ceannebeinne beach was next

Smoo cave was epic. Massive hole in the ground with a waterfall with a long smugglers inlet

The sea off the headland at Smoo cave was being properly whipped up by the wind

Further along was Balnakeil. From here, a significant walk is possible up Faraid head. Had thought about doing the whole thing but decided instead to walk the beach and the first bit as it was still a biting cold wind with rain showers. Balnakeil Kirk was an interesting ruin

Finally, we headed down to just past Scourie for the night.

Another day and more traditional Scottish weather. Thankfully, breaks of warm sun in between- the rain/hail showers are freezing! Nevermind, first stop of the day was Wolfburn Distillery (https://wolfburn.com/). Due to the Scottish laws on alcohol, Tracey did the tasting of all whiskys – not bad going by 11 am!

Next stop was to RSPB Forsinard Flows. 14 miles south on road that eventually leads back to Baile an Or.

Forsinard railway station is now the RSPB visitor centre, but platform and crossing are very much still in use.

Very cold wind and rain, but an interesting stop. No birds visible but we did spot sundew amongst the various bog plants. The reserve has a lookout tower which offered fantastic views of the Flow.

Tiny sundew plants:

Our journey continued, passing by many small townships and the Dounreay nuclear power station. A quick lunch stop just before Bettyhill and then down towards the fisherman’s old ice house. Picture of this to follow post-holiday in the ‘post-NC500’ monochrome gallery (details later). Masses of golden sand.

To Bettyhill, the scenery was noticeable ‘richer’ – more hills and variety compared to the relative flat of the East coast. Our final park up for the night at Borgie Glen. A couple of vans have come and gone as I write, and now it is just us again.

Nearby, a quick pine forest loop walk took us up to a bizarre sculpture and a cracking view of our own ‘Mount Doom’ looking across Mordor.

First stop at Noss Head Lighthouse for Castle Sinclair Girinigoe:

Next stop, another ruin, Old Keiss Castle:

Couple of Grey seals were lounging on the beach below Keiss

After Keiss, we headed up to Duncansby Head to see the Duncansby Stacks. A spectacular sight, even in the harsh, cold rain:

Headed back to John O’Groats to visit the famous signpost where folk patiently wait to take their pictures:

Next up, Dunnet Head lighthouse, the most northerly point on the mainland and from where it is possible to see the Orkney isles. The weather was fine, but a black rain cell was never far away!

After a stop at the Dunnet Bay Distillery (gin), where the were rightfully told gin is diesel for the body, we rolled into Murkle for the night.

Rounded the day off with a stroll to the beach. View across to Durness Head.

Started off with sun and then a heavy shower before we left Baile an Or for Wick. First stop, Berridale Harbour with its folly, rickety suspension bridge and row of old fisher cottages:

Next up, Dunbeath Harbour:

Latheron Wheel was the final ‘harbour’ theme location for the day. Spot the van competition again:

Harbours done. Walligoe steps was next in line. The cove was used in the past to deliver herring to the local community; the fishermen would arrive and unload to the women who would carry the fish loads back to the top. All 309 steep steps to the top…!

Just got back to the top before the next hail storm landed.

After a brief lunch stop in the van, the Old Pulteney Distillery was our next target where ‘some items’ were bought 😀

The Old Castle of Wick was not on the original schedule, but squeezed in to kill a bit of time for our check-in at Wick Riverside Campsite. The wind must have been blowing a steady 40-odd mph so we didn’t hang about!

Finally, we rolled into Wick and the Riverside Campsite. An immaculate site with fantastic facilities.

Relaxed start to the day from the Golspie campsite. First stop, Dunrobin Castle, was only 10 mins up the road, so an easy target.

A self guided tour takes around an hour during which visitors get to see a mere fraction of the 189 rooms in the ‘castle’ which has been the seat of the Earls and later, Dukes of Sutherland, continously inhabited since the 1300’s.

The Victorians loved having each room to have a specific purpose. One such room was the Music room containing amongst other things, a violin and stag (what?!)

Other delights included the nursery where there were some excellent toys including a decidedly freaky doll in a pram

After marvelling in the ostentatious luxury, we headed out to the garden for a falconry display (actually specifically focusing on the hunting technique of dog and hawk in the woodland vs. dog and falcon on the moors.)

Gryfalcon.

Harris Hawk.

There was also a Bengalese Eagle owl:

Next stops included pausing at the Wolf Stone, marking the location of where the last Wolf was dispatched in Sutherland

Passed through Brora and Helmsdale before heading up to Baile an Or. Gold was found in 1818 for the first time and it wasn’t until 1868 that permission was granted for prospecting in the Helmsdale river and its tributaries. By 1870, permission was revoked by the Duke. This was also our camp for the night.

Above: spot the van!

Full intention to make an early start for Inverness. Failed. As it turned out, we had plenty of time to stock up on food for a future evening’s meal and fill the diesel tank. To be fair, we had 203 miles left in the tank from home to Invernahavon so pretty impressive fuel economy for a van weighing >2.6 tonnes. Diversion to Rogie Falls. Not a single salmon in sight anywhere, save for those reduced to pulp being sold in the car park.

Rogie Falls. Tick.

Next stop; Tarbet Ness Lighthouse. Cold and wet. ‘Dreich’ as the Scots would say.

Facts:

1. Tarbet Ness is Scotland’s third tallest lighthouse
2. Built by R. Stevenson in 1830 after 16 vessels were shipwrecked
3. It is said the site was once a Roman fort and then a witchs’ coven

Finally, up to the campsite at Golspie and a brisk walk to the Golspie inn for tea (and a much needed beer)

Arrived at about 3pm. Short exploratory walk to the ‘centre stone’